Yellow Warbler, Stoke Newington

June 9, 2014

Yellow Warbler

Yellow Warbler

You might think that Stoke Newington and its environs suffer a surfeit of cafés and perhaps, towards the Church Street end, you might have a point. There is, however, always room for somewhere new and interesting, especially if they are doing something a bit different, new, and tasty.

Yellow Warbler is doing just that.

Sited on Northwold Road, part of the Dantean one-way system that throws a confusing loop around part of the N16 area and heads off towards Clapton, Yellow Warbler is a café that also serves Venezuelan street food. The coffee is Climpson and Sons, always likely to earn an approving nod from my palate. I had a piccolo in an oversize glass (no criticism: the café actually only opened properly today and there are one or two things still absent from the roster), which was smooth and chocolate, a suitably tasty rendering of Climpson’s tried and tested Estate blend. I also tried a single origin Kenyan Kiangoi, again by Climpson, as a filter. I enjoyed this greatly and the rich summer fruits I picked up certainly complimented the weather.

For food, I had an arepas, which is a corn-flour patty cooked in some sort of mysterious machine and native to Venezuela, from where I gather one of the owners hails. They are crisp on the outside and fluffy and moist on the inside, and very filling. I had mine replete which crispy chorizo and indulgently gungey Manchego cheese, served with a punchy Venezuelan form of guacamole called guasacaca and a crunchy salsa called pico de gallo. All in all, tasty and interesting. This was served for a very reasonable £3.50, with the piccolo at £2.20 and the filter at £2.40. These prices pleased me too, not suffering from the north London chic tax that some cafés seem intent on making us pay.

The filter

The filter

The café itself is fairly typical in its design, airy and light and not exactly shy of its drop lighting, but I did enjoy the Henretian wooden throne I parked myself in to enjoy my food and drink. The atmosphere was gentle but lively: stuff gets done but it doesn’t disturb, which if you’re reading or writing is ideal. I was reading, a fine book about baseball as it happens, and passed a very pleasant hour in a state of genuine relaxation. And this returns me to a parenthetical point I made earlier: this is/was the first day that Yellow Warbler was open. And that is seriously impressive. The service was sharp and friendly, chattily congenial but also efficient. The coffee is already very good and the sort of teething problems cafés often, understandably encounter just didn’t seem to be present. These guys are on point and power to them for it. So, while those of you who visit N16 might already have your favourites, I would commend Yellow Warbler to you for a visit. And eat the food. The food is yummy.

Yellow Warbler, 9 Northwold Road, N16

Website with details

Also on Twitter

Yellow Warbler

Yellow Warbler


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